A Swede’s Guide to Söderköping and Göta Kanal

Söderköping

Söderköping is a cozy little town on Göta Kanal, and in the summer pretty much everything here revolves around the boats. The center is small so you can see it in a couple of hours.

For me it works best as a base. The big attraction nearby is Göta Kanal itself, and Söderköping is a good place to set off from, or just an easy stop if you’re driving through Sweden. So it ends up being more of a hub than a destination in itself.

I’ve been back a few summers now, usually when I’m passing through anyway, and I always like it here. On a sunny day it’s perfect for a day trip, mostly for an ice cream at Smultronstället.

The Canal and the Waterfront Walk

Almost everything in Söderköping is centered around the waterfront walk along the canal. The leisure boats are moored on one side, and the other side is full of cozy cafés, restaurants with outdoor seating and small shops. There’s a walking path on both sides of the water too, so it’s a calm, green stretch to walk.

Göta kanal

It’s also where you head out if you want to see more of the canal. You can take a boat from here along Göta Kanal, or bike along it instead. Either way it’s a nice way to see more than just the part that runs through town.

The Lock at Söderköping

One thing you really shouldn’t miss is watching the boats go through Söderköping sluss. It’s right in the center along the canal, so it’s hard to miss. The water level rises and drops to move the boats between the canal and the sea, and it’s cool to watch.

Sluss vid Söderköping

Smultronstället

Smultronstället is easy to spot as you walk along the canal. There’s usually a long line out on the street. If you go during the busy weeks in July and August, be prepared to wait a while for a table.

Glass på Smultronstället

It’s worth it though. The creations are imaginative, and the spot right by the lock makes the whole thing feel a bit special. One tip is to not eat too much before you go, because the portions are big. On a warm day there’s nothing better than sitting here in the shade with an ice cream, and if you come by boat it’s basically a mandatory stop.

Ramunderberget

If you want to move around a bit before or after your ice cream, Ramunderberget has the best view over Söderköping. The trail up starts on the other side of the lock, across a wooden bridge, and a lot of the climb is on wooden stairs, which makes it a bit easier.

Utsikt från Ramunderberget

That said, it’s a tough walk up in the summer heat. So if it’s a hot day I’d take the car or a bike instead. There’s a road up to the reserve from the Petersburg sports grounds that lets you skip the stairs.

The Old Town

The old town is small but nice to walk around, with cobblestone streets and low wooden houses painted in light colors. The houses are full of restaurants, cafés and shops, and there’s a small, cozy park too.

Rådhuset

If you’re into architecture or history, the two spots not to miss are St. Laurentii Church and the old town hall (rådhus).

Restaurants by the Canal

There are two restaurants by the canal I’d recommend, both with a good spot by the water. Bakfickan is the safe choice if you’re in a group and want options. The menu is wide and covers everything from pizza and burgers to traditional Swedish home cooking (husmanskost).

Just a stone’s throw away is Håll Bar & Kök. I haven’t eaten there myself, but it has a seasonal menu built around organic, locally sourced food, and I always think it’s a good sign when a place keeps it local like that. If you want something a bit more local than a standard menu, that’s where I’d go.

Where to Stay in Söderköping

All the places to stay are within walking distance of the center.

Söderköpings brunn

The most popular one is Söderköpings Brunn, a spa hotel right in the center of town. It’s housed in a charming old building from the 1700s, and it’s the one to go for if you want to stay comfortably. There’s a spa with treatments, a restaurant and free use of the pool and sauna.

B&B Mangelgården

If you’d rather keep it simple and be closer to nature, B&B Mangelgården is a cozy bed and breakfast with a real family feel. It’s more about the experience than anything fancy or commercial.

Korskullens Camping

And if you’re coming by motorhome, Korskullens Camping is right on the edge of the town center. I haven’t stayed there myself, but it’s big and has good reviews, so it seems like a solid base if you’re traveling by camper.

Getting to Söderköping

One of the nice things about Söderköping is that it’s an easy detour from both Norrköping and Linköping.

From Norrköping you just take the E22 down toward Söderköping. It’s about a 20-minute drive. If you’re coming from Linköping, the easiest way is road 210.

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